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Replacing A Freeze Plug

Note this was written for a man replacing the front, passenger side freeze plug.   The general guidelines work for any freeze plug where ever it may be.

The type of vehicle makes difference about how hard this is to do.   This is a lot easier to write that it will be for you to do as there isn't a lot of space in which to work.

Often it helps to completely remove the alternator and whatever other acessories are on that side of the engine.

There is a drain plug on most blocks at the bottom of the block.   Remove it if it isn't rusted in place and let the block drain; this keeps the water from flooding on you when you knock the old plug loose.   Sometimes you have to make a hole in the goop inside the bottom of block so the water will drain.

Use a short but wide punch (a short 3/8 socket extension works fine) to push the top or one side of the freeze plug back into the block.   Don't punch the bottom as the plug is probably rotten there and so all that will happen is that your punch will go through.   You want the freeze plug to turn 90 degrees.

Use some pliers and grab the edge of the freeze plug and pull it out.   Water pump pliers work best so you can use the top of the pliers for levelage.

Use a sponge or rag to soak up enough of the water in the block that the bottom of the hole stays dry.   Clean the hole with a scrapper or old knife.

Coat the edge and back (to delay the corrison) of the new freze with gasket sealer and start it by hand.   Use a small hammer to tap it into place.